Trimmings :The material component except main fabric which are used in the garments are called trimming or accessories .Besides fabric various additional things are use for making garments .Fore the example sewing thread ,button, etc .There are two types of trimming .They are
(b) invisible trimming .Visible trimming can be seen from outside of the garments .For example :interlining.
Some trimming used for functional purpose which is used for decorative purpose.
List of trimming used in shirt, jackets and trousers:
1. Label 2.Motif 3.Button 4.Swing thread 5.Interling 5.Zipper7.Hook &loop fastening 9.lignin 10.Sholder pad 11.Rivte 12.Lace,braid,&elastic 13.Collar insert, butter fly, plastic clip ,buckle , pin, poly bag. Bar code .
Buttons are hardware items used in junetion with buttonholes for the fastening of garments.
The purposes of using buttons are
A) Functional purpose:
This referee to buttons which are used to open and close garments with security.
B) Decorative purpose:
These are buttons which are used purely for decorative purpose .for example, Sleeve vents.
Types of buttons:
Buttons can be classified in various types, some are mentioned below.
1 According to line no .There are various types of buttons.Ligne is the measuring unit of button diameter .To maser the outer diameter of button we use ligne no
1 ligne = 0.025’’ or 0.0635 mm
The button sizes are
a16 L b.18L c.24L
d.12L e.28L f .32L g.36L
In shirts mostly we use 16L button is also used .In button (B.D) shirts 12L button are use d. Inmost common parts 24L button is used .Sometime times 26L snap button are also used.
2. According to the no of holes:
There are three types of button.
A) 2-hole button
B) 4-hole button
C) Special button (a) shank button (b) snap button (c) decorative button used in sleeve.
3According to material:
According to the manufacturing material there are the following types of button –
This button are made of polyamide, polyester,polyacrylonitrite etc.they are cheap, not glossy and widely used in shirt.
They are used in denim pants, trousers etc.
They are used in decorative and functional purpose
They are made up of horns of animals used in shirt, pants. Artificial horns are also used which are made up of nylon ,plastic and additives.
It is used to make plastic glossy, used in shirt.
They are used only in decorative purpose.
Rivet is not used to open or close the opening the garments .They are used for the following purpose.
a) Widely used for decorative and reinforcement purpose of denim or jeans garments.
b) It has two parts and requires an appropriate device to attach on garments.
This item consists of two woven polyamide tapes one covered with very fine hooks and the other very fine loops .When pressed together they adhere securely to each other. This fastener is used instead of zipper and button.
A Swiss inventor made this product and he offered the trade name ‘VELCRO’ for it ‘VELCRO’ come,s form two France words ‘velour’ and ‘crochet’.
It is used in only a limited number of garments like shoes, belts ,sports were children wear,madecal textile etc.
This is one kind of trimming which is use open and close of special parts of garments.
Functional purpose of zipper is as a part of a garment here zipper is used to open and close the openings.
Where zipper is used as a decorative purpose, it inches the beauty of germens.
In making trousers and jackets , chain or zipper is in essential component which is used to open or close of special parts of garment.
Types of zipper:
According to manufacturing material there are 3 types of zipper.
1. Metal zipper:
.Metal zipper is used in trousers and shorts.
2. Polyester zipper:
Polyester or nylon zipper are used in jackets .It is made from a continuous filament paced onto narrow fabric tape.
3. Plastic - molded zipper:
This types of zipper is used in pants.
It is move up and down. Function of slider is to engage or disengage the teeth of opposite sides of chain.
Slider mainly three types they are:-
1. Non –locking.
3. Full or auto locking.
Label is an attached component of garment on which important information regarding the garment are written or printed. No garment can be sold without some kind of label attached to it .Specially in case of exporting label on a garnets is must .For example the size of garment trade mark country of origin type of fiber etc, are written on label There are mainly 3 types of label .
1. Main label:
Main label contains brand name or trade name of buyer which is registered by the buyer .For example Levis .Polo, lee etc.
2. Size label:
Indicate the size of garment I e L, M, XL, XXL or collar length of shirt 15,16,17,18 etc.
3. Care label:
It indicates the care instruction of the garment by some internationally recognized signs. It shows the washing, drying, dry-cleaning, and ironing conditions of garments. The all other labels are called sub –labels.
The special component which is attached outside of the garement for decorative purpose is called motife.Company name ,trade mark or other symbols can be written on the motif.
Hangtags are designed to draw attention to the garments and are hung on the side of the garments and sometimes in front of button line so that the customers can see them easily .Hangtags are printed paper tags hung from the garments by plastic staple or string. They usually show the brand name, style no, etc. It is regarded as finishing accessories, not sewing accessories.
Lining are generally a functional part of garment .They are used to maintain the shape of a garment to the hang and comfort by allowing it to slide over other garment .Lining are are available as knitted and woven fabric made from polyester .polyamide .acetate, viscose for use where slippery material is required and from cotton, polyester cotton wool where decoration and worm handle is required. Linings are joined to main garment by sewing and for this purpose normal plain swing machines are used. Lining are widely used in jackets coats overcoats pockets flaps children wear etc .Genaraleycheap fabrics are used as lining material.
Interlining are used to support reinforce and control the shape of some areas of garments such as collar, cuffs, waist bands ,facings and in front of corts .They may be sewn into the garments or they may be attached by the fusing .Nowadays sewn interlining are hardly used and usable interlinings are widely used.
Interlining is available in a wide variety of weights and constructions to mach the fabric of garment. They can be woven non –woven product .Woven interlining are most commonly of plain weave construction, whereas non-woven interlining are made directly from textile fibers and are held together by mechanical ,chemical ,thermal or solvent means or combination of these.
Swing interlining is made by swing .Some plies of fabrics together by swing densely then it is joined with main garments by swing. Where fusible interlines have coating
of thermoplastic material on them and are joined to the garment by adhering them with the help of pressure and heat. Fusible interlining give better result then that of sewn ones.
Shoulder pad is a standard item in tailored garments both for women and for men. Linings are used on the top and bottom of shoulder pad.As a result the appearance become beautiful ,comfortable and lasts for long time.
Shoulder pads are for functional purpose and some times for decorative purpose.
Quality of trimmings:
Trimmings may be of textile materials or non-textile materials. They should be selected carefully to get desired performance. The quality of trimmings are described below-
The life time of garments and that of the trimming should be equal .Otherwise the trimming will be faded or spoiled by washing, pressing, ironing, rubbing.
The appearance of the garment may be hampered if the accessories shrink due to ironing, washing or pressing. Fore example seam pueker will be result in if the sewing thread shrinks. So the shrink ability of the dress material and the trimming should be checked earlier.
3. Color fastness:
The fastness properties of accessories should be good. The color of trimming should not be faded due to washing or exposure to sunlight. The appearance of garment will be hampered if the trimming materials are faded.
Where items are made from metal, the main construction is the problem of rusting. The button, clamp, rivets etc may be made up the metals like iron, brass, steel etc .If rusting occurs they will create spot on garment. So to avoid this problem the metal trimmings should be electroplated or they should be made up of non-rusting materials.
Trimming should not create any uncomfortable felling to the wearer .They should be hygienic also as to cause no skin disease.